
a few weeks ago, i returned to el salvador. i spent my first week passing time in a place called Tacuba, it is near Auhachapan, which is located on the Ruta de Flores, which is very close to the Bosque Imposible. tacuba is a beautiful place. but this pueblito tacuba is sooo very different than any part of el salvador that i have ever experienced. it was mostly untouched by the civil war, and there is little to no political propoganda, which anyone who has been to el salvador would tell you is VERY rare, the gangs do not control the land, and most of the men are still in tacuba. which is also super rare because typically men (and womyn) must leave to bigger cities or the US for the survivial (income) of their families.
while there, i was visiting with two friends, Allie and Beth who are doing a very cool research project on various topics regarding fair trade, organically grown coffee. they were looking at the differences between fincas (coffee farms) which export their coffee and ones which only sell within the country. further, they were trying to garner some understanding of the effects which cooperatives, fair trade certification, and organic certification have on communities, womyn, and overall livelihood. i'm grateful to those two and a team from UVM which taught me a great deal about agroecology and agroeconomics here in el salvador.
while i was just tagging along with them, i did learn a great deal about fincas, fair trade certification, and the very real life challenges involved in living a life farming. upon leaving the community, i could not believe the sacrfice and work that goes into food cultivation, production and food security. while there learned a ton and experienced some things i really don't want to forget...a few things i'd like to share some of that with you all...
1. never before have i seen such rural poverty. i have traveled to the campo before, in fact i have lived in the campo for a short week, but where i was this past week, there was no drinkable water, and in most places there was no running water, lights or electricity. it appeared that the people i spent time interviewing lived in a seriously different epoch of time. a young womyn named Rosa was one of the salvadoran field assistants who worked with allie and beth. i got a chance to spend a short amount of time with her but in that short time she shared a perspective which was completely new to me. Rosa is 16 years old and cannot remember the last time that she had a glass of milk. it is most probable that she last consumed milk while nursing 15 years ago. she's certainly not alone, most children who get milk only get breast milk for the brief period that their mother is not with another child. which is rare, because, in order to care for a farm and have enough workers to produce a good yield, a family must have tons of children. this is a photo of Rosa's cousin. when i went to interview Rosa's grandmother, i met two of her young cousins and gave them both a piece of the gum i had in my fanny pack. little did i know that she had 12 other cousins who all lived in the same three houses where we were. some how though, like the multiplication of the loaves and fishes, i had enough orbit and trident to get all 15, a piece Rosa included. it was like i had given them the most deliciously fun treat-toy they'd tasted in weeks.

2. as MLK Jr. tells us, "by the time you eat your breakfast, you have already relied on half of the world." sure we all know that we are insanely disconnected from the nourishment which helps us to live, but who knew it was such a great distance? as we drove 45 minutes up hill and then hiked the 45 degree angles they call fields, i fell on my ass at least five times a day and tried my darndest to not squish the small tomato plants or frijoles that were growing everywhere. and even though these farmers spend every day of their lives working in the fields, most of them have to purchase over 50% of the food their families eat.
i still have no idea the road that our food travels. and am amazed by my own ignorance.
3. i learned, again, that people in the campo are some of the most humble people you will ever meet. and, if you ever need a good dosage of humility come to the campo.
as i tried to keep up with Rosa, we got stuck in a huge storm and, after waiting it out failed, we ventured out and had to cross a rising creek. she in her plasticky flip-flops and me in my heavy-duty chacos. she crossed the rising water with grace and i just about ate-it into the water. she gently smiled, i laughed, and then she let out the chuckle she was keeping in. she had very little when it comes to material richness but was blessed with a rich knowledge of the mountains, of the goodness of the earth, and of how to make even silly, bumbling gringas feel special and welcomed.

4. please learn from my mistakes:
a.) never start peeing near running water, because once you start the sound of the flowing water does not permit you to stop. i mean you cannot stop. (and if you have trouble popping a squat, use a servicio...located on the right...)
that very day, standing just above that very creek, while taking a pee, i accidentally flashed 3 salvadoran men and one little boy. obviously i walked-ran away as fast as i possibly could, but noticed that the little boy quickly was on my tail. so i booked it back to the house we were doing interviews only to find that he lived there. when we got back, he couldn't stop laughing and whispering to his big brother. oooops, hopefully it was my first and last salvadoran peep show.
b.) please, never try to make it alone from el salvador through guatemala to belize and back again in less than 36 hours...unless you can apparate, and in that case i encourage it.
the trip didn't end exactly as i'd planned. by the time i actually got to san salvador, where i'll be spending my next little bit of life, i had been through Tacuba, Ahuachapan, Las Chinamas, Guatemala City, Puerto Barrios, Chiqumula, and on the side of a couple of roads; all in an effort to get a much desired tourist visa which i did not get. which was incredibly frustrating.
i did, however, experience central america for the first time alone. and that was beautiful and challenging. it is very different than the casa program. it's uncomfortably without community. i think that i may live for community.